A Trip to Kadıköy

Kitchen Friends were in Kadıköy, one of Istanbul’s most beautiful neighborhoods, at the historic Kadıköy market… Exploring one of the city’s most colorful, multi-layered neighborhoods and historic bazaars— with its churches, pastry shops, delis, fishmongers, restaurants, and used bookstores— the Kitchen Friends visited the Kadıköy Municipal Office, the Sultan III. Mustafa Mosque, the Greek Orthodox Church of Saint Euphemia, the Surp Takavor Armenian Church, the Süreyya Opera House, and Surp Levon Church, as well as beautiful examples of civilian architecture and street life, shopping at delicatessens and pickle shops, and strolling through the bazaar while reminiscing about their memories at Çiya, Beyaz Bakery, Şekerci Cafer Erol, and Baylan, as they strolled through the bazaar. Arriving at the Altın Kaşıklı Yanyalı Fehmi Restaurant for lunch, the Friends of the Kitchen were treated to a special menu compiled from recipes in “Melceü’t-Tabbâhîn,” written by Mehmed Kâmil and known as our first cookbook. Opened in 1919 by Fehmi Efendi, who had emigrated from Ioannina to Istanbul, and operating at the same location, began with tarhana soup served with crispy bread and buffalo cream, followed by leek-stuffed pastries and cumin-spiced meatballs. The After the main course of lamb papaz stew and pilaf, helva hakaniye, almond revani, and chicken breast were served. The meal was accompanied by a delicious basil sherbet. While Sevim Gökyıldız, an Honorary Member of the Friends of the Kitchen Association, shared information about *Melceü’t- Tabbâhîn*, the original edition of the book brought by our member, the antiquarian bookseller Emin Nedret İşli, drew great interest and was examined with great curiosity by our members. After the meal, the Friends of the Kitchen moved to Ali Muhiddin Hacı Bekir on Muvakkithane Street to sip their coffee. There, in a private room, they were served traditional mastic-flavored Turkish delight and a new product—pistachio-and-pomegranate Turkish delight—while sipping their plain coffee. We also learned from Hacı Bekir, whose first shop in Eminönü Bahçekapı, which has been in business since 1777, we learned from Nurçin Ulaş about the art of confectionery and lokum-making. Our member, Osman Serim—who is also a member of the board of directors of the Turkish Coffee Culture and Research Association—shared insights on coffee culture, its history in our country, and tips on how to brew it.